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Barbarian Days

A Surfing Life

William Finnegan

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Beschreibung

Winner of the Pulitzer Price and William Hill Sports Book of the Year: Barbarian Days is a deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer looking for transcendence 'that recalls early James Salter' (Geoff Dyer, Observer)

Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.

New Yorker writer William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.

Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.

'Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard' Sports Illustrated

William Finnegan

Produktdetails

Format ePUB i
Kopierschutz Ja i
Seitenzahl 464 (Printausgabe)
Erscheinungsdatum 06.08.2015
Sprache Englisch
EAN 9781472151407
Verlag Little, Brown Book Group
Dateigröße 3905 KB

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If you surf, you must read this book
von einer Kundin/einem Kunden aus Basel am 07.09.2020
Bewertet: Einband: Taschenbuch

Great to just relax and daydream. The book takes you on a very interesting journey through a lot of places.


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